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For more than a thousand years, Bukhara, a city in south-central Uzbekistan, was a major settlement along the Silk Roads, a dynamic trading post for jewels, textiles and porcelain. From roughly the eighth to the 13th century, it was also a cultural epicenter during what’s now known as Islam’s Golden Age, when scholars, architects, mathematicians and artists living in the region achieved important advances in everything from math and medicine to painting techniques. The city’s wealth gave rise to ornate, turquoise-domed mosques; Sufi tombs; and massive mud-brick forts that look like something out of “Game of Thrones.” Today, many of these structures remain, with over 140 UNESCO-protected monuments easily navigable on foot.
Now, the city is attracting the attention of the art world: Last fall, a mix of international and Uzbek artists created site-specific exhibitions, collaborated on projects and met up for communal feasts as part of the first-ever Bukhara Biennial. The purpose, said the Uzbek curator and the biennial’s commissioner, Gayane Umerova, was to activate historic sites, support the work of local master artisans and restore some of the city’s traditional architecture. But it’s also sparking a commercial renaissance, with several new hotels and shops rising up to meet the international influx. “The energy in the city is palpable,” said Suna Abdullaeva-Park, a co-founder of the new concept store and cultural space Pavillon Kalon. “Bukhara is reclaiming its place as a cultural hub.”
The Insiders
Abdulvakhid Bukhoriy Karimov is a Bukhara-based ceramics master known for his use of historically significant glazes, including the same turquoise hue that appears on domes of the city’s mosques.
Diana Campbell is an American who spent almost two years in Bukhara preparing for the biennial as its first curator. She now splits her time between Belgium and the Netherlands.
Jenia Kim designs the Tashkent-based fashion brand J.Kim, which draws inspiration from traditional Uzbek crafts.
Suna Abdullaeva-Park is a political adviser and a co-founder of Pavillon Kalon.
Illustrations by Richard Pedaline.
“Mercure Bukhara Old Town, an upscale 57-room hotel near the Samarkand Gates, blends traditional Bukharan architecture with modern amenities and exceptional service. The spa has a beautiful pool, and the rooftop restaurant, Saffron, offers a modern take on Uzbek cuisine.” From about $105 a night. — Suna Abdullaeva-Park
“The converted and restored home of a wealthy Bukhara family, Komil Bukhara Boutique Hotel retains many of its original interior elements, including hand-painted murals, a 19th-century dining room and quiet courtyards that offer both privacy and natural ventilation, making them a pleasant place to spend a warm evening.” From $80 a night . — Jenia Kim
“Lyabi House Hotel, a converted 19th-century mansion originally built by a Jewish merchant for himself and his family, is a piece of historic Bukhara, demonstrating the great and lasting influence of the Jewish community in Central Asia. The courtyards are skillfully landscaped, the lighting is lovely and the dining ayvan [veranda] is the most beautiful one of its kind in the city.” From $95 a night. — Diana Campbell
Eat and Drink
“With a kitchen helmed by a fourth-generation chef whose great-grandfather cooked for the Bukharan emir, Osh Joy is known for its excellent osh sofi — a local take on plov (the traditional Uzbek rice, vegetable and meat dish) cooked in an old-fashioned copper cauldron. Pair it with pickled tomatoes and cucumbers.” — S.A.
“Joy Gastro Restaurant, in an old caravansary [Silk Road-era roadside inn] in the city’s historic center, combines ancient architecture with attentive service and exceptional cuisine. Order kaish, made from layers of thin pasta and beef or lamb, and try to visit on a night when live traditional music is performed, which adds to the charm. The restaurant is almost always full, so reservations are crucial.” — Abdulvakhid Bukhoriy Karimov
“Though not well known to tourists, Palmira, not far from the Imam Kozikhon mausoleum, offers a wonderful selection of dishes, including a delicious, hearty Georgian soup known as kharcho, which combines beef, rice, cherry plum sauce and chopped walnuts.” — S.A.P.
“Dilkor Lagman is a no-frills spot that’s a favorite of my husband’s. It’s known for hand-pulled noodle dishes like Uyghur-style lagman, a deeply satisfying, boldly spiced combination of chewy wheat noodles, stir-fried meat and vegetables.” — S.A.P.
“With seating both inside and on a multilevel terrace, Old Bukhara is the classic place to eat plov. They also have great kebabs — another Bukharan staple.” — D.C.
“Run by one of the most knowledgeable and dedicated collectors of Uzbek crafts, Akbar House Collection is a shop and gallery with a carefully curated selection of vintage suzanis, robes, rugs and much more. The lower floor is especially worth visiting for rare pieces.” — J.K.
“Head to Zahir Kamalov’s metal workshop in the Toqi Zargaron [Bukhara’s oldest domed market] for a pair of his handcrafted traditional bird-shaped scissors. Originally, they were used by Bukharans to cut stencils for gold embroidery. Today, they’re collectible objects.” — J.K.
“I never get tired of visiting the honey stands at the Central Market, just past the fruit and vegetable stalls, where you can try all different types, including a fermented version and one made from cotton flowers. The merchants will pack it in plastic containers so you can take some home.” — D.C.
“The artist Davlat Toshev makes Persian miniature paintings, a tradition dating back to the 13th century. His studio at the Ustoz-Shogird Center for Applied Arts in the old city is also a gallery where visitors can buy his work, and a school where he instructs children in the ancient art.” — J.K.
“Pavillon Kalon offers the best textiles, clothing, hand-embroidered pieces, ceramics and jewelry, much of it handcrafted by local artisans. Make sure to visit the rooftop terrace for a perfect view of the Kalyan Minaret.” — A.B.K.
Explore
“A 15-minute drive from the old city, Sitorai Mohi Hosa was the summer residence of the last emirs of Bukhara, who ruled in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. A palace complex influenced by both Russian and Central Asian architecture, it’s now a museum of decorative arts with beautiful examples of historic furniture and textiles. If you’re lucky, you’ll also get to see the free-roaming peacocks, which are said to be descendants of the emirs’ original flock.” — S.A.P.
“Baland Mosque is no longer in active use, which only heightens its atmosphere of stillness. The remarkably preserved interior has survived largely untouched for centuries, with the absence of heavy restoration allowing visitors to experience the space almost as it was in the 16th century.” — S.A.P.
“Hoja Zayniddin, a 16th-century Sufi mosque and meeting hall, contains a tranquil hauz [sacred-water pool]. Locals gather here for both prayer and casual chats, making it one of the most authentic public living rooms in the city.” — S.A.P.
“Chor-Bakr memorial complex, a mausoleum, mosque and Sufi madrasa, is said to be one of the few places where women were able to receive religious education back in the 16th century, when it was built. The graceful, light-filled design includes several enclosed courtyards that create a sense of movement, drawing you from once space to the next.” — J.K.
“The Ark of Bukhara, a massive fortress initially built in the fifth century, includes the remnants of a 12th-century mosque and later-period baths. It also has sweeping views of the city center.” — A.B.K.
“The 10th-century Samanid mausoleum is known for its masterful, ornately patterned brickwork, which appears to change color over the course of the day. I often come to study these handmade mud bricks that have witnessed centuries of history.” — A.B.K.
“Built in the 18th century to honor the female saint Hazrat Qizbibi, Qiz Bibi was primarily a Sufi shrine, part of which was destroyed in the 1930s. Now, visitors — especially women — come here to pray and manifest their desires. There’s a wonderful spiritual energy to the place.” — D.C.
These interviews have been edited and condensed.
