Capitaine Washes Ashore in the West Village With Tavern Takes on Seafood

nytimes
By nytimes
3 Min Read


A bouquet of positive reviews did not deter Cody Pruitt and Jacob Cohen from closing their West Village bistro, Libertine, a month ago; they wanted more neighborhood and less special occasion. They’ve now recaptured history, converting the space, a former seaman’s saloon, into what they’re calling a tavern, the restaurant du jour, featuring seafood. Oysters are front and center, in addition to razor clams, whitefish brandade croquettes and dressed crab to start, then whole dorade, steak frites and, of course, a burger as befits a tavern. The wines lean French and by the glass they stop at $21 ($31 for Champagne). There’s more banquette seating and a communal table.

684 Greenwich Street (Christopher Street), capitainenyc.com

What was Olmsted has now become this restaurant from Lauren and Joe Grimm, of the award-winning Grimm Artisanal Ales in East Williamsburg. A muffuletta for lunch, starting in July; a dry-aged smashburger, roast chicken, and pan-fried brook trout in the evening; and, after 10 p.m., spice bag fried chicken, highlight the menu. Drinks go beyond brews to include a full bar. (Opens Friday)

659 Vanderbilt Avenue (Prospect Place), Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, grimmales.com.

Kiko, the contemporary Asian restaurant at the edge of SoHo by Alex Chang and Lina Goujjane, has a sibling showcasing an East-meets-West approach through the lens of an izakaya. Their chef de cuisine, Joji Miwa, from the Bay Area, is on the same page, coming up with an onion tart with bonito cream, roast chicken with umeboshi plums and a foie gras-soy sauce jus, and hochija crème caramel. A deep selection of sake, wine and cocktails will fill your glass. The brick-walled interior has colorful wall-hangings. (Thursday)

137 Sullivan Street (West Houston Street), nourynewyork.com.

On the heels of their reopening of Gertie in Prospect Heights, Nate Adler, Rachel Jackson and Emily Tripp have now planted their flag in another part of Brooklyn. This time they play their Jewish nostalgia card with more subtlety than at their other venues (including Gertrude’s), but still offer a giant latke with assorted toppings and schmaltz fried rice. Their menu’s centerpiece is rotisserie chicken. Sides include rotisserie cabbage, creamed greens, and butter beans with tomato vinaigrette. The room, with dark wood trim, and tchotchkes here and there, seats 60, with 30 more outdoors.

524 Court Street (Huntington Street), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn, 718-269-0043, trudies.nyc.



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